Chasing 200 mph doesn't have to mean emptying your garage budget on a poster-car McLaren. That's the fun of this little highway test: pick cheap FH6 Cars, build them sensibly, and see what survives a proper full-throttle run. No speed traps, no event boost, no downhill gimmicks. Just a long bit of motorway, enough room to settle the car, and the speedo telling the truth. It sounds simple. Then you start noticing how many "cheap" builds become very expensive once swaps, tyres, and transmission parts pile up.

Why the Obvious Choices Miss the Point

The McLaren F1, Countach, and similar big-name machines will clear 200 mph without much drama. Nobody's shocked by that. They're brilliant cars, but they don't really answer the budget question. If a car costs several hundred thousand credits before you've touched the upgrade screen, it's already out of the running. The challenge is about total spend, not just the number shown on the speedometer. A clean 200-mph pass in an expensive supercar is nice. Doing it in something people normally scroll past? That's the bit players remember.

The better hunting ground is older sports cars and fast saloons with decent engines already fitted. The LFA can get there with turbo power, though it stops feeling cheap once the bill is added up. The Noble M600 makes more sense, and the MP4-12C is one of those cars people keep rediscovering because it needs very little help. Still, the Subaru Legacy is the oddball worth watching. Its factory motor has enough headroom, and small upgrades actually matter instead of merely inflating the class rating.

What Players Keep Doing Wrong

    The Meta: Everyone copies expensive engine swaps after seeing one flashy highway clip.

    The Snag: Swap costs and twitchy gearing quietly wreck the bargain.

    The Fix: Keep the stock engine and tune transmission ratios first.

Reality check: The Peel P50 can be hilarious, but hilarious doesn't stay straight at 190 mph for long.

A Quick Budget Comparison

These are the sort of numbers worth checking before buying parts. They aren't fancy benchmark figures; they're practical reminders of where the credits usually disappear during a real build.

The Legacy's appeal is how little drama it creates. Start with the sport transmission, then add camshaft work and only the power parts that move the needle. Don't throw every upgrade at it. A long final drive helps, but too long and the car takes forever to pull through the last few mph. Give it a few highway runs in both directions as well. Wind, traffic, and tiny road crests can make a "200" claim look a bit generous.

The Question That Always Comes Up

    A lot of players are wondering whether the Legacy still works once they add premium tyres and chase a cleaner, safer top-speed run.

    Yep, but keep it light. Better tyres help stability, while pricey swaps usually kill the whole point.

Make the Credits Count

The real win here isn't pretending the Subaru Legacy is a hypercar. It plainly isn't. What it offers is a cheap, weirdly satisfying route to a number that usually belongs to cars costing ten times more. Build it in stages: 1, fit the transmission, 2, improve the cams, 3, test the gearing, and 4, stop spending when the car does the job. That last part matters. If you'd rather skip the slow grind and try more oddball builds, you can buy FH6 Credits and keep the garage experiments moving without treating every failed tune like a disaster.